belays

belays

1. Few European climbers use locking krabs on belays, but in the UK, there is an almost paranoid reaction to using open gate krabs.

几乎没有欧洲攀岩者确保时会使用带锁钩环，但在美国，使用不带锁钩环就会引起很偏激的反应。

2. Grade 2 A pitch of 60-70 degree ice, reasonably consistent, with few short, steep steps. Good protection and belays.

单绳距60至70度的冰，包含少量短的陡阶，确保安全。

3. It is a good idea in the last two cases because the intermediate belays are not too good.

在最后这两个地方是个好主意，因为中间的确保点都不好。

4. Grade I A short climb close to the road with bombproof belays and an easy descent.

在路旁短距离的攀登，有安全的确保且容易下降。

5. If you've got a companion, take a rope with you and a couple of pitons for your belays, but nothing else.

如果你有同伴，多带一条绳和一些岩钉架确保系统，其他东西就不用了。

6. That said, screw gates are advisable on all top and bottom rope belays because the constant movement of the system could conceivably cause the rope to come out of an open gate krab.

就是说，带锁钩环适用于上方确保和下方确保，因为系统持续的动作相信会造成绳子脱出不带锁的钩环。

7. In general, things go pretty well when the belays are equipped with glue-in bolts linked by a chain 1.5m above a nice big ledge.

总的说来，当保护站设置在一个理想的大平台上方1.5m处，并由钢链连接在一起的多个化学螺栓组成时，操作会很顺利。

8. Grade 3 Sustained 70-80 degree ice, usually thick and solid. May contain short, steep section, but will have good resting places and offer good protection and belays.

持续70至80度的冰，通常厚且硬，可能含有短距离的峭壁，但有好的休息点，确保安全。

9. Grade 4 Sustained 75-85 degree ice, separated by good belays or a less steep pitch with significant vertical sections. Generally good-quality ice, offering satisfactory protection.

持续75至85度的冰，好的确保区零星分布，有少许显著的垂直区，通常冰质很好，提供良好的保謢。

10. Belays: The belays are mostly shiny bolts and are all bombproof.They can be used to rap down the route in need (some belays are used only for rapping, some belong also to the climbing route).

确保：确保点大部份都是发亮的膨胀锚桩，很安全，需要时可以用它们来下降（有些只能用来下降，有些属于攀登路线）。

11. Hanging belays are done when there is no suitable ledge or foothold available.Most often done on difficult, multi-pitch climbs.

这种保护方式在没有合适的立足点时使用，通常用于困难的多段攀登中。

12. She began her piano studies in Shanghai with Qian Qi,Ding Shande,Yang jiaren ,Mario Paci,Alfred Marcus and Bela Belai.

青年时代在上海学习钢琴，师从钱琪、丁善德、梅凰契、马库斯、贝拉、贝莱等中外名师。

13. She began her piano studies in Shanghai with Qian Qi, Ding Shande, Yang jiaren, Mario Paci, Alfred Marcus and Bela Belai.

青年时代在上海学习钢琴，师从钱琪、善德、凰契、库斯、拉、莱等中外名师。

14. Slingshot -A toprope setup where the belayer belays on the ground (where the climber starts climbing) and the rope is pre-clipped through the anchor at the top of the climb.

顶绳保护。保护者站在地面（攀登者开始攀登的地方），攀登主绳预先挂在线路顶端的保护点上。